Before coming to Virginia, I drank Viognier, but not very often and always from the Rhone/South of France. My Virginia experience has brought me closer to Viognier and for that I am very thankful! It is by far one of the most flexible white wines in which to pair with food. Viognier is prolific with Virginia wineries, and you will find many with differing characteristics, to choose from. Hence, the fact that Viognier is so very flexible in its pairing abilities is a culinary Godsend to the Virginia wine industry. It has been suggested that it is the varietal, at least white varietal, to be seriously considered as the one that Virginia should put forth as its signature wine. Petit Verdot and Norton are considerations for red wines. History tells us that New World wine regions have achieved widespread recognition with a particular varietal…..the obvious being Napa with Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Australia with Shiraz. New Zealand with Sauvignon Blanc. I guess time will tell which one the industry chooses as their hallmarks. In the meantime…let’s just talk Viognier and some of the dishes I like to pair with it.
Viognier can express notes that range from citrus/lemon-lime, honeysuckle, to apricot, to floral and white peach, some minerality is always a good thing; and in the hands of a good winemaker will maintain freshness and acidity, while providing enough roundness on the palate to be an elegant dinner wine. The introduction of malolactic/2nd fermentation, either wholly or partially, will secure that richness on the palate. Leaving it ‘sur lies’ in the barrel, is another option. The ripeness of the grapes is always essential for a wine to express the fruit’s characteristics at their best….and this is sooo true for Viognier. In the spirit of “when in Rome” I served Viognier for my first Thanksgiving in Virginia. My palate told me that this would be a perfect pair, and it was right!! I will not go into my traditional Thanksgiving menu details now. Clearly, not the season and besides, what would I write about for Thanksgiving 2010. My point is that in exploring Viognier, I discovered quickly its pairing potential. Scallop and Bacon Chowder, Shrimp and Corn Chowder – staples of my winter comfort foods repertoire. Roasted Guinea Hens or Chicken stuffed with apricots and wild rice….or, wait a minute, what about an Herbed Roasted Pork with an Apricot Chutney! I am giddy with the possbilities. Typically, Viognier is paired with exotic foods that encompass sweet spice – think Indian or Moroccan or Asian. And I highly agree with that, and one of these days will purchase a Moroccan tagine and do just that. But, for most folks making dinner for their family and friends, Indian or Moroccan may be a tad challenging.
A lighter Viognier as an apéritif pairs nicely with hummus. Sabra is a hummus brand that I like a lot. The one with pine nuts, or the red roasted pepper, with some pita slices….a not-too-ripe brie, maybe warm with apricot or peach chutney…and some olives, would make a fabulous opening spread.
I was convinced that I alone had figured out the Viognier and Thanksgiving pairing (I’m sure there are VA wineries that would challenge me on that claim)…..but, very recently, when perusing Evan Goldstein’s Perfect Pairings, I discovered that he had beat me to the punch. Pffft (as the French would say). Okay, at least I can take solace in knowing that a published Master Sommelier, son of renowned Chef Joyce Goldstein, had come to the same pairing conclusion. And having recently connected with Evan in the world of social media, I had my intro….Viognier and Thanksgiving and the conclusion that, as Evan says in his book, “Viognier is underrated in its ability to pair with food,” OMIGOD, I’ve said that lots of times…really!! I’d like to think that we are now pairing soulmates.
Cheers…………Anita
“Music is the wine that fills the cup of silence.” Robert Fripp, Rock Guitarist extraordinare and old friend.
Being snowed in in NJ, your erudite wine and food descriptions make me feel hopeful and alive. And thirsty and hungry!
Best , Denise
Good article. Interesting idea that viognier should be identified with VA.
I wrote a couple of articles on viognier and food, and included it in a Thanksgiving piece as well.
Let’s share a bottle one of these days.